I am costarican and was born in the caribbean province, so I grew up enjoying the traditional and delicious food that is made near the east coast of my small country. To add a little context about why food is so different there I will give a short hint about it’s history.
Limón province is mostly a big rain forest with lots of rivers and mangrove swamps near the coast, thus it is hot (30C ~ 86F) and humid (~60%).It was mostly habited by indigenous people, but during the construction of the train railway to the central valley a lot of Jaimaicans were hired and migrated, becoming the main habitants of the area. It is also a perfect area for growing bananas and pineapples, then a second generation of Jamaicans migrated because of the installment of the United Standard Fruit Company, making their influence stronger.
That is why the Caribbean food influence is so strong and the traditional dishes from this province are quite different from the rest of the country. I’m so glad that we had that strong influence because I love the food and the culture that evolved because of it, now let’s explore Limón traditional food.
Salty
- Rice n beans
This is a classic, if you were in Limón and didn’t try it, it’s like you were not there. It is quite important to make a distinction here, rice n beans is the main course and it is not “gallo pinto” at all. You can have it with any kind of meat (beef, pork, chicken, fish, seafood, and a rare specialty akee with cod) and the regular sides are traditionally sweet plantain and relish salad.
What is so special about it? It tastes so different because the beans are cooked with coconut oil, then rice is cooked with the bean broth and a local variety of habanero pepper (“panameño”) that can also add some spice if desired. The meat you choose will go preferably with a Caribbean sauce so you can mix it with the rice n beans. Everyone usually tries it with chicken which is my second favorite, but my top one would be with beef tail or beef ribs, not so easy to find though. And I always drink “agua de sapo” or “iel” (which is a different pronunciation of Ale) to help you deal with the hot weather. I highly recommend it in puerto viejo, some places in Limón city and Siquirres, and believe it or not you can find pretty good options in San José (caribbean food in SJ).
- Patí or Patty
My preferred snack since I was a kid has been a beef patty. If you see it for the first time you’ll say it is the most simple snack, but its flavor is so rich and in combination with the texture of the wheat pastry when baked makes it a tasteful experience. I’ve been having it for years, and yet it still feels awesome on every single bite. Traditionally the filling is a mix of ground beef with dough and several spices (for me it’s better with “panameño” pepper). Although you can find several variations with chicken and vegetarian fillings. In the Caribbean it is usually baked, but there are other tasty variations in San José which are fried.
This is not an easy to make snack, you’ll find lots of people selling it on the streets and even in supermarkets but those are lame. The only one I’ve tried and actually enjoyed that is sold on the street is called “paty de thompson”, but it is better to look for known places both in the central valley and in Limón, either Limón city or Puerto Viejo town.
- Caribbean Mondongo Soup
Don’t be fooled by the name. Yes, mondongo is tripe, but the caribbean version is so different that you can barely see the pieces of tripe in there. I love tripe, still this soup is mainly flavored with bone, beef hock, several root veggies, caribbean spices, panameño pepper and just a bit of tripe. Actually it is thick, so maybe fits better into the stew category. It is a favorite among locals, full of flavor and definitely not a light meal. Mmmm, are there any light meals in the caribbean??
- Mondongo in tomato sauce
One of the dishes I enjoy the most when going back to my hometown, and a kind of meal you usually enjoy at home and cooked by your mom. This is a very basic tomato sauce, all natural with onions, pepper, garlic, celery stalk, panameño pepper and chickpeas. It goes well with white rice, I prefer to have it plain as if it was some kind of stew. This could be more of an acquired taste, not tasty everywhere you order it. I’m picky and prefer to ask for the firm part of the tripe, which gives a better feel while savoring it. If you like beef tongue, you might like this dish as well.
- Stew beans
Definitely the most difficult to find, and also one amazingly enjoyable while being so simple. I’ll eat these beans with white rice only, and still will be a whole taste experience. The beans are cooked with ribs and/or beef tail, panameño pepper and regular mix of pepper, onion and garlic; the meat flavor deeply seasons the beans (I prefer black beans, but also great with black eyed peas). I’ve only managed to try them in Manzanillo, specially requested by a local friend.
- Rondón
As you might imagine by now, caribbean flavor usually involves coconut milk and panameño pepper. Well, this soup is not an exception, but this time the protein will be seafood, any variation or combination is possible, some prefer it only with fish (usually mackerel). Although it’s not a regular seafood soup cause it has several root vegetables and plantain or green bananas. Luckily this dish is quite famous and easy to find in most restaurants.
- Canasta de Patacón with shrimps in caribbean sauce
Patacones are quite special and can be a side for any meal or a main dish, also known as tostones in other places. This is just smashed green plantain and deep fried. It’s flavour is glorious and it goes with anything (guacamole, refried beans, shredded beef, pulled pork) but the caribbean specialty is with shrimps in caribbean sauce. Patacones could be flat as a small tortilla or formed as a small bowl (canasta) so that it is easier to hold the shrimps and the sauce. I really recommend it because usually they are a safe bet, but patacones must be made fresh, otherwise they won’t be crunchy.
- Fry cake (Fried cake)
This is not an easy to find snack. I know about two places to get this, one in Limón city and one in San José. You’ve heard that everything tastes good when deep fried? I personally disagree, but deep frying this lightly spiced dough is actually good. In Limón people would have it with sausage, I’m more biased to have it alone or as a side with the mondongo soup. It’s salty with a crunchy crust and will get you full in the blink of an eye. Usually taken for breakfast, but I prefer a lighter morning, although sometimes I feel up for the task.
- Jerk Chicken
Who doesn’t like grilled chicken? This is another simple known dish, but with a special dry rub very common in Jamaica called Jerk. Jerk is a combination of allspice and Scotch bonnet peppers. Other ingredients usually used are cloves, cinnamon, scallions, brown sugar, nutmeg, thyme, garlic, salt and ginger. Also a pretty known dish and easy to order almost at any restaurant in Limón.
- Bochinche
This is very popular as well, and available in most places of Limón city center. It’s kind of a Limón city version of casado which is the typical dish all around Costa Rica. This version usually has beef steak, spaghetti with tomato sauce, black beans, patacones and salad. It’s a very different combination of ingredients, still I’m not such a big fan. You can make your own opinion after trying it, it’s not expensive at all.
Sweets
- Chicheme
This is such a good dessert, not found in any other place in Costa Rica. It is very traditional and was inherited from the grandmas of the province. Similar in flavor to “arroz con leche” but this one has whole corn kernels. Kernels will be cooked until soft with a mix of milk, vanilla, sugar, cinnamon, clove, coconut and nutmeg. Very tasty and highly recommended, you can try it hot or cold.
- Banana cake
So simple, yet so good. Plain cake dough mixed with bananas, one of my favorites for dessert and to have as a snack in the afternoon with a hot drink. This you can find almost anywhere in Costa Rica, still in the caribbean it tastes so much better.
- “Plantintá” (Plantain tart)
This is the sweet version of patty, although the dough is a little different and white. The filling is made of sweet plantain and red coloring. It is a tasty snack that goes great with coffee.
- Cocadas or tártaras
These are so good, it’s similar to a cookie mixed with a coconut “cajeta”. The ingredients are “tapa de dulce” which is boiled sugar cane juice and dried into a raw sugar block, it is melted again and mixed with shredded coconut on top of a thin wheat dough crust. These are a perfect sweet snack for taking on trips.
- Panbón
Of course there should be some traditional bread, there are actually a lot but the most consumed and the one that you will find everywhere (even on the side of the road to Limón) is Panbón. It is quite different since it is not so sweet, uses a black dough because of the ingredients and is dense. Go ahead and try a piece at some bakery or coffee place, you’ll probably enjoy it.
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